Tag Archives: buying a puppy

04/23/20
Demystifying the puppy buying process

How my puppy buying process works

Demystifying the puppy buying process

 

I am currently receiving a high volume of puppy enquiries, and thought it may be useful to ‘demystify’ the puppy buying process. This blog post outlines the general process, and also some frequently asked questions.

 

Initial Contact

A puppy buyer will make first contact at some point. My preference is always to receive a phone call – I feel like I understand a person better when I hear their voice. We know that text doesn’t translate well on a screen. Phone calls are also more special – I receive about two enquiries by email each day, but I probably receive one my phone every fortnight. Those people who call me make a great first impression. I will suggest that the puppy buyer call me again at a particular time, and will generally invite the puppy buyer to visit our home and our dogs (or meet us at a dog sport).

 

The bitch is in season

On the initial contact, I will normally suggest that the puppy buyer contact me at a specific date. Generally, this date is at the approximate time that a bitch is due in season. When the puppy buyer contacts me again, I welcome the opportunity to have another chat and get to know them a little more. With any luck, the bitch has come in season as planned. However, it’s possible the bitch is not in yet – in which I will ask the puppy buyer to contact me again in about a month. If the bitch is in season, I will ask the puppy buyer to contact me again after the bitch has been mated.

 

The bitch has been mated

Once the bitch has been mated, we schedule an ultrasound for 28 days after the last mating. We will let the puppy buyer know the date scheduled for this ultrasound, and ask them to contact us again a few days after this ultrasound.

It is at this stage that I may begin to make a small list. I have, afterall, hopefully known these people for a few months now, and so have some idea of what sex and colour they’re interested in, and what type of home they can offer.

 

The bitch has an ultrasound

When the bitch has an ultrasound, this will show approximately how many puppies she will have. This may be zero, in which case, when the puppy buyer next calls, I will have to tell them our disappointing news, and advise them when our next bitch is due in season. We start this whole thing again (but not quite from scratch – I do know this person now, and I’m very pleased that they have kept in touch). If there are puppies expected, I will let the puppy buyer know how likely it is that they will get a puppy. If I only have two puppies on board, and I have five people wanting a puppy, it’s unlikely I will be able to fulfil all ‘orders’. Generally, the people who have been in contact the longest, or those that I have formed the best relationship with, are ones that are more likely to get a puppy. People who have visited us and I now personally know are harder to deny. People who have an interest in dog sports also appeal to me, as I love to see my dogs working in their new homes. However, even if I’ve said there is a low likelihood that they’ll get a puppy, there is still hope – sometimes ultrasounds are inaccurate. There may be more.

I now definitely have a list of people who are interested, just so I can keep track. However, I don’t bother recording contact details for those people – just their name and their preferred sex and colour. If they really want a puppy, I trust that they’ll contact me again.

I ask the puppy buyer to contact us a few days after the puppies due date.

 

The puppies are born

Finally, we have a litter of puppies! I now know what sex and colours they are! From here, I can now look on my list and see which orders I can fulfil. My needs always come first, and my intention is to keep a bitch puppy from almost every litter (if I don’t, then I can’t continue to have litters). Sometimes this gets tricky as I may not know if I will have a bitch that is show and breeding quality in the litter, but I pencil in my name next to one bitch at least.

Here is when I begin to match puppies to owners, tenatively – based on those basic sex and colour categories. When a puppy buyer contacts me at this stage, I will again say how likely or not that a puppy will be available to them. I will save the contact details of several who are ‘next in line’, as nothing at this stage is set in stone.

 

The puppies are three weeks old

When the puppies are three weeks old, and I feel confident that they are healthy, I will ask for deposits from those successful puppy buyers. They will also be sent a contract to complete at this stage, outlining the terms of sale. If any person refuses the contract, then I have those next on my tentative list to contact. I will also invite those who have signed a contract and sent me a deposit to friend me on Facebook to see all the photos I’ve been posting!

 

The puppies are seven weeks old

At seven weeks of age, I have a fair idea of which puppy is going to which home. I will let the puppy buyers know which puppy I think will be theirs during this week.

The puppies will have their vaccinations, microchipping, and vet check. If the vet check reveals any issues with the puppy (for example, low grade heart murmurs, undescended testicles, inguinal hernias, etc), then I will contact the puppy buyer to advise them. The contract they previously signed advises them that they may withdraw from sale at this point, if the puppy is ‘unwell’. Most puppy buyers do not withdraw. If a puppy buyer does withdraw, I will return their deposit, and contact other puppy buyers on our list.

 

The puppies are eight weeks old

The puppies leave to their new homes at eight weeks (or twelve weeks for puppies being exported). We are, of course, able to provide ongoing support to all our puppy buyers, and will always take back a dog at any stage of their life if they are in need.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Can we go on your waiting list?

I do not keep a waiting list. I receive in excess of 300 puppy enquiries a year. I have bred (as of 23/04/2020) 34 puppies over ten years. I have no desire to maintain a waiting list, and by not keeping a waiting list, I defer responsibility to puppy buyers. I trust that any genuine puppy buyer will ‘bother’ to keep contact with me and, if that is too much work, then I’m very glad to find a home that is more committed.

 

Can you take a deposit now?

I do not take deposits until puppies are 3 weeks old. This is to avoid disappointment. Again, I do not breed many puppies, and so if I take a deposit now, it may be years before I can provide you with a puppy. This is a organisational nightmare that I do not want to partake in.

 

What is your application process?

I’m not that formal. You apply by talking to me, being friendly, meeting my dogs, being nice to them, showing interest in the breed, and being patient and kind. As I want to help my puppy buyers suport their dog for life, if I don’t get along with the person, then it’s not going to work (for either of us!).

 

Why is this so hard?

I don’t think it’s ‘so hard’ to form a relationship with me instead of engage in a transactional arrangement. If you don’t like how I sell my dogs, then you can contact another breeder. You might find one that is perfect for you that you click with, which is better for you, me, and the dog!

 

I was really hoping to have a puppy by (date).

I cannot control when my bitches come into season, whether they conceive from a mating, or how many puppies they produce of a given sex or colour. Puppies do not grow on trees and I cannot simply find one for you to meet your timeline. It is generally recommended that you contact me 12 months or more prior to wanting to purchase a puppy – this will improve your chances, but still won’t guarantee anything.

 

How do you choose between puppy buyers?

The honest truth is: I choose puppy buyers that I like. I particularly like people who I have gotten to know over a long period, and who have bothered to visit me and my dogs.

 

What are your terms for a puppy to show or breed from?

My main register puppies are sold on co-ownership. When that puppy gains a title (in any discipline – not just conformation) then I will sign that puppy entirely into the new owners name. This is to stop ‘backyard breeders’ who simply acquire a dog to breed from. I want to make sure puppies I sell get to prove their ability to be smart or be beautiful before they are bred from. I am very happy to sell my dogs to show and breeding terms, and I can send the full contract on request, well in advance of puppies being born so the prospective home can make their own choices regarding pursuing purchase or otherwise.

 

Can you recommend another breeder?

I do not recommend any other breeder. You can find other breeders on DogzOnline.com.au, and I would always recommend you visit any premises to ensure you are happy with the environment your puppy has been born and raised in.

 

I hope this blog post helps to demystify the puppy purchasing process. If you have any further questions you’d like answered, please comment below.

 

You may also like: How to find a good dog breeder, and our puppies 2012.

04/6/14

How to find a good dog breeder

Purchasing a Dog or Puppy: What to look for in a breeder

 

So you have made a decision to add a dog or puppy to your family. Congratulations!

But how do you make sure you’re getting a puppy from an ethical source?

It’s not a ‘black or white’ matter. There is no definitive issue that makes a breeder ‘good’ or ‘bad’.

Instead, here’s a guide which talks about necessities, niceties, and red flags.

 

Necessities

If your breeder doesn’t do this then walk away…

  • Breeder shows concern and regard to the health of dogs and puppies – either in health testing or in the studs used (e.g. choosing old studs that show they’re healthy, using DNA testing, using x-rays, and other relvant tests)
     
  • Breeder shows concern and regard to the psychological well being of their dogs and puppies – either in providing enrichment on site, by frequently taking their dogs ‘out and about’, by using Dunbar’s methods of raising puppies (with toilet area, kongs, socialisation), and preferably a combination of these methods.
     
  • The breeder has a clear purpose in their breeding program that goes beyond ‘breeding pet puppies’ – they may enter their dogs in dog shows, participate in agility or obedience with their dogs, or have dogs that compete in working dog trials
     
  • The breeder’s dogs approach you in a friendly and sociable way. You are able to interact with and handle all dogs on the property. The mother should be available and should show exceptionable sociable behaviour.
     
  • The breeder is willing to provide life-long support to you as a puppy buyer – including taking back the dog at any point things ‘don’t work out’
     
  • The breeder happily shows you all the dogs in their care
     

 

Niceties

It’s nice for the breeder to do any of these things, but don’t be concerned if it doesn’t happen.

  • The stud dog is on site
     
  • The breeder asks you lots of questions about your household and what you’re looking for
     
  • There is a sales contract that goes beyond simple money exchange
     
  • The breeder can show registration or affiliation to an organisation with a code of conduct/ethics
     
  • The breeder can recite pedigrees and seems to be oozing with knowledge about the breed
     

 

Red Flags

If any of these items take place, you may want to reconsider purchasing an animal from this breeder.

  • The puppies are not vaccinated
     
  • The breeder seems overly concerned about the purchase price
     
  • Not all adult dogs are sociable and friendly
     
  • Part of the breeder’s sales pitch is ‘lots of colours available’ or ‘will grow up big’ or ‘will stay tiny’ or ‘rare!’
     
  • The breeder asks for deposits before a bitch is mated
     
  • The breeder sells puppies together to the same pet family
     
  • The puppies are crossbreeds which seem to have no real purpose (ask, how do they fit into the clear purpose of their breeding program?)
     
  • The puppies are crossbreeds and are given a fancy name like ‘labradoodle’ or ‘spanador’.
     
  • The breeder does seem to be putting the hard sell on you – they’re saying “if you put a deposit down today, I’ll take $100 off the asking price” or “If you don’t buy him now, I have someone coming at 2 o’clock who will buy him”.
     
  • The breeder breeds more than 3 different breeds of dogs
     

stop sign

 

Do Not Buys!

If a breeder performs any of the following points, then do not purchase a puppy and look elsewhere.

  • You cannot meet the mother or father in any circumstances (e.g. ethical breeders, even if the stud dog owner is interstate that should be able to say ‘you can meet them if you really want to go interstate’)
     
  • Puppies are not microchipped – in most states of Australia, this is a legal requirement
     
  • The dogs or puppies seem unhealthy or in poor condition (dirty, matted, skinny, fat)
     
  • The adult dogs are not sociable and friendly, especially if many of the adult dogs are not friendly
     
  • The breeder is unwilling to show you all the dogs at their home
     

 

Is there anything you would add to this list?

 

Further reading:

Red Flags: Warning signs when dealing with a breeder

How to tell if your dog breeder is responsible

A puppy ‘with papers’ from a ‘registered breeder’

Select, select, select

Dog Breeders: Don’t produce lemon puppies

08/2/13

A Puppy “With Papers” from a “Registered Breeder”

There is some confusion on what ‘with papers’ and ‘registered breeder’ means, and this confusion adds to the complexity of looking for a breeder and a puppy. This is a brief post that explains what ‘papers’ are  and a ‘registered breeder’ is, to ensure that you don’t find yourself ripped off in your puppy purchase.

 

What are ‘papers’?

When you say, ‘a purebred puppy with papers’, then the ANKC (Australian National Kennel Council) pedigree papers is what ‘the papers’ bit is.

It’s also a good idea, when purchasing a puppy, to look for other documentation, such as:

  • A vaccination certificate
  • A microchipping certificate
  • A vet check certificate or similar (keep in mind that vaccines can only be administered to healthy animals, so if the puppy is vaccinated, s/he should’ve been ‘healthy’ at the time of vaccination)
  • Any relevant health testing paperwork for parents and puppy (this will depend on the breed)

 

What is a ‘registered’ breeder?

When people refer to a ‘registered’ breeder, they are referring to a breeder which is registered with an ANKC member body (such as Dogs SA, Dogs Victoria, and so forth). A registered breeder should be able to show a membership card with their name, their prefix, and a membership number on it.

Some people call themselves a ‘registered breeder’ because they are registered with the council.  While many councils require breeders to be registered with them, it is not any type of endorsement for the welfare of the animals that are maintained or bred at the facility.

 

How do I find a puppy with papers from a registered breeder?

If you are looking for a purebred puppy from a registered breeder, then your best bet is to contact your ANKC body to ask for a breeder list.  DogzOnline also maintains a list of ANKC registered breeders (though not all breeders are listed on their site).

If you are an international reader (outside of Australia), then you will have to try to find your national kennel club.  The USA has the AKC and the UK has The Kennel Club.

 

Further reading:

Tips for Contacting a Dog Breeder

Resources for New Puppy Buyers

02/1/12

Select, Select, Select

For too long we’ve cried “socialise, socialise, socialise”.  I vote for a new slogan: “select, select, select”.

Ultimately, to bring a confident, happy, sound, enjoyable new puppy into the household, three critical selections need to be made:

We need people to select an appropriate breed. They need to know what characteristics fit in with their family or lifestyle. Genetics hugely determine the behaviours of dogs.  There are countless resources explaining how to consider the breed most suitable to you.  This includes practical appearance criteria, like “how big?” and physically appealing charactertisitcs.  Then, nitty gritty criteria regarding owner energy compared to the dog’s, and willingness to groom.  An understanding of the breed’s original purpose and how that original purpose might be annoying (e.g. a breed bred to retrieve likes to use their mouth, a breed bred to herd may nip and herd people, a breed bred to kill vermin often are indiscriminate with pocket pets).  In short, new owners need to research breeds and work out what breed would love to live and thrive in their household- not a breed that they could ‘make work’.

Golden retriever puppy

Kari with a puppy from Savaneta Golden Retrievers from South Australia.

Puppy buyers need to select a breeder with care. By that I mean: a breeder that cares. Cares about where their puppies end up, about the pedigrees of their dogs, about choosing pups suitable to the individual’s lifestyle. A good breeder may say no to some households, because they only want the best for their puppies. A good breeder probably doesn’t have a puppy available right now. Good breeders take steps to ensure their animal never ends up in a shelter, and will live a happy and full life in a loving home.  A good breeder knows some puppies are not perfectly normal, and will not let them go to any home.

And the pedigree of the dog, including the parents, need to be considered. This is in terms of temperament and in terms of health.  Nervous dogs, or aggressive dogs, should not be bred from, and should not be in the pedigree.  Buyers should insist on meeting at least the mother of the puppy, and any other relatives possible.  The pedigree should, however, include healthy dogs – especially dogs that are old and healthy.  Certificates of health should be presented for the parents, including any relevant scores (e.g. hip, eye, etc) for the particular breed.  Knowing the background of the puppy provides some security and confidence in what the puppy may grow to be.

I’m sure if people went through all these steps, or even half of these steps, we’d have less dog problems than we see today. There would be no impulse buys, if people were selecting the right breed, and going through a responsible breeder. If people considered pedigrees and parents more often, there would be more healthy and stable dogs.

Selecting the right breed, from the right breeder, from the right pedigree, would right a lot of wrongs. … We can dream, can’t we?

 

Further reading: Can breeders breed better?