04/23/20
Demystifying the puppy buying process

How my puppy buying process works

Demystifying the puppy buying process

 

I am currently receiving a high volume of puppy enquiries, and thought it may be useful to ‘demystify’ the puppy buying process. This blog post outlines the general process, and also some frequently asked questions.

 

Initial Contact

A puppy buyer will make first contact at some point. My preference is always to receive a phone call – I feel like I understand a person better when I hear their voice. We know that text doesn’t translate well on a screen. Phone calls are also more special – I receive about two enquiries by email each day, but I probably receive one my phone every fortnight. Those people who call me make a great first impression. I will suggest that the puppy buyer call me again at a particular time, and will generally invite the puppy buyer to visit our home and our dogs (or meet us at a dog sport).

 

The bitch is in season

On the initial contact, I will normally suggest that the puppy buyer contact me at a specific date. Generally, this date is at the approximate time that a bitch is due in season. When the puppy buyer contacts me again, I welcome the opportunity to have another chat and get to know them a little more. With any luck, the bitch has come in season as planned. However, it’s possible the bitch is not in yet – in which I will ask the puppy buyer to contact me again in about a month. If the bitch is in season, I will ask the puppy buyer to contact me again after the bitch has been mated.

 

The bitch has been mated

Once the bitch has been mated, we schedule an ultrasound for 28 days after the last mating. We will let the puppy buyer know the date scheduled for this ultrasound, and ask them to contact us again a few days after this ultrasound.

It is at this stage that I may begin to make a small list. I have, afterall, hopefully known these people for a few months now, and so have some idea of what sex and colour they’re interested in, and what type of home they can offer.

 

The bitch has an ultrasound

When the bitch has an ultrasound, this will show approximately how many puppies she will have. This may be zero, in which case, when the puppy buyer next calls, I will have to tell them our disappointing news, and advise them when our next bitch is due in season. We start this whole thing again (but not quite from scratch – I do know this person now, and I’m very pleased that they have kept in touch). If there are puppies expected, I will let the puppy buyer know how likely it is that they will get a puppy. If I only have two puppies on board, and I have five people wanting a puppy, it’s unlikely I will be able to fulfil all ‘orders’. Generally, the people who have been in contact the longest, or those that I have formed the best relationship with, are ones that are more likely to get a puppy. People who have visited us and I now personally know are harder to deny. People who have an interest in dog sports also appeal to me, as I love to see my dogs working in their new homes. However, even if I’ve said there is a low likelihood that they’ll get a puppy, there is still hope – sometimes ultrasounds are inaccurate. There may be more.

I now definitely have a list of people who are interested, just so I can keep track. However, I don’t bother recording contact details for those people – just their name and their preferred sex and colour. If they really want a puppy, I trust that they’ll contact me again.

I ask the puppy buyer to contact us a few days after the puppies due date.

 

The puppies are born

Finally, we have a litter of puppies! I now know what sex and colours they are! From here, I can now look on my list and see which orders I can fulfil. My needs always come first, and my intention is to keep a bitch puppy from almost every litter (if I don’t, then I can’t continue to have litters). Sometimes this gets tricky as I may not know if I will have a bitch that is show and breeding quality in the litter, but I pencil in my name next to one bitch at least.

Here is when I begin to match puppies to owners, tenatively – based on those basic sex and colour categories. When a puppy buyer contacts me at this stage, I will again say how likely or not that a puppy will be available to them. I will save the contact details of several who are ‘next in line’, as nothing at this stage is set in stone.

 

The puppies are three weeks old

When the puppies are three weeks old, and I feel confident that they are healthy, I will ask for deposits from those successful puppy buyers. They will also be sent a contract to complete at this stage, outlining the terms of sale. If any person refuses the contract, then I have those next on my tentative list to contact. I will also invite those who have signed a contract and sent me a deposit to friend me on Facebook to see all the photos I’ve been posting!

 

The puppies are seven weeks old

At seven weeks of age, I have a fair idea of which puppy is going to which home. I will let the puppy buyers know which puppy I think will be theirs during this week.

The puppies will have their vaccinations, microchipping, and vet check. If the vet check reveals any issues with the puppy (for example, low grade heart murmurs, undescended testicles, inguinal hernias, etc), then I will contact the puppy buyer to advise them. The contract they previously signed advises them that they may withdraw from sale at this point, if the puppy is ‘unwell’. Most puppy buyers do not withdraw. If a puppy buyer does withdraw, I will return their deposit, and contact other puppy buyers on our list.

 

The puppies are eight weeks old

The puppies leave to their new homes at eight weeks (or twelve weeks for puppies being exported). We are, of course, able to provide ongoing support to all our puppy buyers, and will always take back a dog at any stage of their life if they are in need.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Can we go on your waiting list?

I do not keep a waiting list. I receive in excess of 300 puppy enquiries a year. I have bred (as of 23/04/2020) 34 puppies over ten years. I have no desire to maintain a waiting list, and by not keeping a waiting list, I defer responsibility to puppy buyers. I trust that any genuine puppy buyer will ‘bother’ to keep contact with me and, if that is too much work, then I’m very glad to find a home that is more committed.

 

Can you take a deposit now?

I do not take deposits until puppies are 3 weeks old. This is to avoid disappointment. Again, I do not breed many puppies, and so if I take a deposit now, it may be years before I can provide you with a puppy. This is a organisational nightmare that I do not want to partake in.

 

What is your application process?

I’m not that formal. You apply by talking to me, being friendly, meeting my dogs, being nice to them, showing interest in the breed, and being patient and kind. As I want to help my puppy buyers suport their dog for life, if I don’t get along with the person, then it’s not going to work (for either of us!).

 

Why is this so hard?

I don’t think it’s ‘so hard’ to form a relationship with me instead of engage in a transactional arrangement. If you don’t like how I sell my dogs, then you can contact another breeder. You might find one that is perfect for you that you click with, which is better for you, me, and the dog!

 

I was really hoping to have a puppy by (date).

I cannot control when my bitches come into season, whether they conceive from a mating, or how many puppies they produce of a given sex or colour. Puppies do not grow on trees and I cannot simply find one for you to meet your timeline. It is generally recommended that you contact me 12 months or more prior to wanting to purchase a puppy – this will improve your chances, but still won’t guarantee anything.

 

How do you choose between puppy buyers?

The honest truth is: I choose puppy buyers that I like. I particularly like people who I have gotten to know over a long period, and who have bothered to visit me and my dogs.

 

What are your terms for a puppy to show or breed from?

My main register puppies are sold on co-ownership. When that puppy gains a title (in any discipline – not just conformation) then I will sign that puppy entirely into the new owners name. This is to stop ‘backyard breeders’ who simply acquire a dog to breed from. I want to make sure puppies I sell get to prove their ability to be smart or be beautiful before they are bred from. I am very happy to sell my dogs to show and breeding terms, and I can send the full contract on request, well in advance of puppies being born so the prospective home can make their own choices regarding pursuing purchase or otherwise.

 

Can you recommend another breeder?

I do not recommend any other breeder. You can find other breeders on DogzOnline.com.au, and I would always recommend you visit any premises to ensure you are happy with the environment your puppy has been born and raised in.

 

I hope this blog post helps to demystify the puppy purchasing process. If you have any further questions you’d like answered, please comment below.

 

You may also like: How to find a good dog breeder, and our puppies 2012.

02/21/19

Socialisation: More is Better

Socialisation: More is Better

You do not have to read my blog for long to know that I’m a big fan of puppy socialisation. If you read my Puppies 2012 series, you can see the kind of effort I put into puppy raising five years ago (though my methods are different – better – today!).

One of the problems we have with puppy socialisation is that it’s difficult to test the kind of socialisation that works outside of controlled conditions. A recent study used a standardised socialisation program in assistance dogs, and measured the effects. This is a rare opportunity to have a control group for puppy socialisation (as they were all raised in the same conditions in the breeding facility). And the results were fairly impressive!

 

Study Basis

Undesirable dog behaviours are problematic. Dogs with problem behaviours may be surrendered to rescue. If they occur in specialised breeding programs (like assistance animals, working animals, or sport animals), then dogs that have unsuitable behaviours are the financial burden of wastage. In the worst case scenario, a dog that is aggressive to people or other animals can cause physical and psychological harms.

In many animals, including dogs, we know that juvenile experiences affect development. Puppyhood may be the time to save adult dogs. For dogs, we know that the crucial social development period is 2-13 weeks of age.

Studies on puppies have suggested that early socialisation causes puppies to:

  • Mature faster
  • Explore more
  • Be more resilient
  • Perform better on problem-solving task
  • Be more successful in training

But there is a paucity in dog research. Many studies only look on the short-term impact on puppy development, and do not look at particular socialisation programs. This study wanted to address this paucity.

 

Study Design

In this study, an assistance dog puppy-raising facility was used. This meant the puppies could be raised in a controlled way. This study used puppies that were golden retrievers, labrador retrievers, or mixes of.

The control group had fourteen puppies who received the centre’s ‘standard’ socialsiation program.

The study group included nineteen puppies who received the standard socialisation program plus ‘extra’ socialisation 5-7 days a week. This extra program took 5 min per puppy in weeks 1-2, 10 minutes per puppy in weeks 3-4, and 15 minutes per puppy in weeks 5-6.

This socialisation program was tailored to the development of the puppies. For example, there’s no point opening and closing an umbrella around a 10 day old puppy. Basically, the socialisation was specific to that age group’s comprehension, and also layered in a way that meant that it wasn’t overwhelming – just appropriate.

It was also important that the program was effective, quick and easy, and low cost.

Below is the programs that the ‘standard socialisation’ and ‘extra socialisation’ puppies were exposed to. It’s actually a little more complicated than this, as there is specific ages that this stimuli should be experienced by the pups, but I went for this simplified version. You can pursue the full text if you really want to know!

Tactile:
-Puppy picked up
-Puppy stroked gently with fingers
-Handle each puppy in the kennel with bitch
-Groom in kennel
The above is standard. Extra in ES is:
-Wearing velcro collar
-Body touched specifically: head, body, tail, legs, paws
-Holding puppy against: woolen jumper, nylon t-shirt, fleece material
-Stroking puppy with soft towel, rubber glove, soft child’s toothbrush
-Puppy encouraged to move over: carpet, rubber matting, reusable shopping bag

Auditory:
-Radio on in the kennel block
-Washing machine sounds
-Plastic bottle with dried pasta inside in kennel with litter
The above is standard. Extra in ES is:
-Sounding near the puppy: a paper bag, a plastic bag, jangling keys, ringing mobile phone, clapping
-Rolling noisy items (e.g. filled toy) in the pen and outside of the pen

Visual:
-Television on in the kennel block
-Push chair in visual range of kennel
-Charity collection box in visual range of the kennel
The above is standard. Extra in ES is:
-Puppy put in front of TV
-Rolling items in and out of the pen
-Hanging items above the stimulation area
-Opening and closing an umbrella
-A mirror (and encouraging exploration of)

Interaction with People:
-Puppy weighed
-Puppy nails clipped
-Puppy carried around block
-Contact with people wearing dress up clothes
-“At least two sessions in a socialisation kennel as a litter”
-Time away from litter
-Grooming on grooming table
The above is standard. Extra ES is:
-Puppy carried around kennel or to socialisation kennel
-Puppy stroked by hand
-Puppy’s teeth and ears examined
-One on one play session for 3 minutes
-Puppy gently restrained for 5-20 seconds
-People wears hat, sun glasses, back pack

Interaction with Environment:
-Empty plastic bottle in kennel with litter
-Toys in kennel to include: soft, plastic, squeaky, rubber, big soft toy
-At least two session on rubber and grass outside areas (that is at least four sessions outside
-Cardboard box in kennel
-Tunnel in kennel
The above is standard. Extra ES is:
-Experience concrete, grass, and rubber surfaces outside
-Puppy encouraged to climb over an obstacle
-Puppy encouraged to move in and out of door ways
-Gently place a towel over puppy and let it find its way out

Then, at six weeks of age and at eight months of age, the puppies were assessed.

At six weeks, the puppies were exposed to six stimuli, and puppy responses were scored on a seven-point scale. It is most desirable for them to get a score of four – but low scores are least desirable. The same trained staff member assessed all puppies, and did so blind (i.e. did not know which puppy was from which program).

Then, at eight weeks, the puppy’s handler was asked to complete a questionnaire of 40 questions, using a bar scale of 0-100. In this tool, low scores were most desirable, except for the trait of trainability. The puppy handler was also blind (i.e. did not know what program their puppy was from).

 

Study results

We could simply say: it worked. This small amount of extra socialisation resulted in better dogs, at least until 8 months of age.

“This is the first socialisation program tailored to the developmental stage of puppies from birth to six weeks of age to demonstrate measurable, long-term effects on individual dog behavioural traits.”

At all stages of testing (6 weeks, 8 weeks, and 8 months), the puppies who were on the extra socialisation program did better.

Puppies on the extra socialisation program scored better on:

  • Separation related behaviours,
  • General anxiety scores,
  • Body sensitivity scores, and
  • Distraction.

Additionally, extra socialisation puppies showed more desirable attachment, excitability, and animal chase scores (but this was not statistically significant). There was no affect on trainability or energy scores.

On the Puppy Profiling Assessment (where the perfect score is 4), puppies in the standard socialisation program had a mean score of 3.1, while the ones on the extra socialisation program had a mean score of 3.8.

A puppy exposed to things at a young age is likely, as an adult dog, to treat those things as benign. This reduction in novelty logically affects how dogs behave – they are less anxious and distracted by stuff they’ve seen before.

 

So what should we do? 

To quote the article, “The program is recommended for working dog [including assistant dogs], pet dog breeders and shelters.” This really says what we always knew - everyone breeding dogs should be socialising their puppies. This studied showed that what happens before 8 weeks of age affects the puppy throughout at least the first 8 months of life but, presumably, even longer than that.

Ultimately, people are responsible for shaping the experiences of puppies in their care. Arguing that someone ‘doesn’t have time’ to raise puppies well is illogical, according to this study. The puppies on the extra socialisation program did not receive a great deal more time with people, it’s just the way that time was utilised that varied.

For working dogs, early experiences are particularly relevant due to expense and wastage that results from failure in socialisation – and those working dogs raised in kennel environments are at greater risk again.

This study suggests the extra socialisation puppies spent more time away from their littermates which may also result in these bettered scores. Perhaps this time away from their family for small bouts meant they developed better ways of coping with the stress of permanent separation at 8 weeks.

Regardless, we know that socialisation matters, and more is better!

“Mildly stressful early life experience and challenging situations make animals more resilient to stress, less susceptible to emotional disturbances, and promote motor and cognitive skills in adulthood.”

 

My Thoughts

This study has a relatively small sample – there are only 33 puppies across the two groups. We need to see this study replicated with larger groups in order to make definitive conclusions.

This study has also put a lot of emphasis on appropriate age of exposure. In a clinical or kennel environment, then this formulaic approach to puppy socialisation is understandable. In more naturalistic settings (i.e. home puppy raisers), I don’t think it’s too important to get fussy about what exactly the puppy is getting exposed to at what age, as long as the puppy is not scared and not oblivious to the stimuli.

The big take home point are: socialisation matters, and it can just take 5-15 minutes a day with a puppy to make a difference to the future adult dog.

 

Further Reading

This study has also been reviewed by:

Giving Puppies Extra Socialization is Beneficial to Them from Psychology Today

Extra Early Socialization for Puppies Makes a Big Difference from Companion Animal Psychology

 

Source

Vaterlaws-Whiteside, H & Hartmann, A 2017, ‘Improving puppy behaviour using a new standardised socialisation program’, Applied Animal Behaviour Science, vol 197.

 

Other Blog Posts

Puppy Socialisation Checklist

Television is Good for Puppies

Puppy Socialisation by Dunbar

Socialisation – Not Everything

07/16/17
Litter Size - Can we predict it?

Litter Size – What the research says

Litter Size - Can we predict it?

There is an ongoing paucity in the literature surrounding most dog matters, and that means dog knowledge is often based on anecdotes and experience instead of facts and figures. Dog breeding is no exception. Breeders will tell you that they get bigger litters if x, smaller litters if y, that they’ll never mate a bitch if z. While personal experiences can provide case studies, I am interested in much bigger data.

Enter a Norwegian study looking at 10,810 litters.

This study used data held by the Norwegian Kennel Club to look at every litter registered in 2006 and 2007, across 224 breeds. Statistical analysis was then done to determine all the wonderful figures summarised below.

The aim of this study was to determine what actually makes a difference in litter size. (Litter size being the number of puppies born, alive or dead.)

Firstly, an overall average had to be determined. For this data set, the average litter size, considering all breeds, was 5.4 puppies.

For those interested in average litter size by breed: The largest average litter size was in the Rhodesian Ridgeback with an average of 8.9 pups per litter. The Toy Poodle and Pomeranian had the smallest average litter size – 2.4 pups per litter. And the Border Terrier (because I’m biased) had an average litter size of 5.1 pups per litter.

This study found that litter size was influenced by the size of the breed, the method of mating, and the age of the bitch. Litter size was not affected by season of birth, or the number of litters a bitch had had.

Size of the breed

This study examined dogs based on average breed size. They were classed as miniature breeds (<5kgs), small breeds (5-10kgs), medium breeds (10-25kgs), large breeds (25-45kgs), and giant breeds (>45kgs). Bitches were recorded against the average size of a dog for their breed and not specifically on the size of that given bitch.

“When looking at all the … litters…, mean litter size increased with the size of the breed. The mean litter size was 3.5 in miniature breeds, 4.2 in small breeds, 5.7 in medium breeds, 6.9 in large breeds, and 7.1 in giant breeds.”

The feature of larger dog breeds having larger litters is not a new thing – this phenomena is consistent across other studies. But this study is different as it found that it wasn’t just size of the breed that mattered…

Age of the bitch

The first analysis of this data showed no significance with the age of the bitch, however, once breed size was taken into account, there were two trends apparent:

  • In small and miniature dogs, young and old bitches had smaller litters than the ages in between.
  • In larger breeds, increasing age corresponded with decreasing litter size. (Young bitches of larger breeds produced the largest litters – unlike small and miniature breeds.)

Predicted litter size by the age of the bitch for the five different breed size groups from Borge et al. study.These results are a little different to other studies, which have shown smaller litter sizes as bitches get older. (As in, the results this study got for larger breeds was seen in all breeds in previous studies.) It could be that smaller sample sizes in other studies may have missed this, or that other studies used larger breeds as their data set instead of small or miniature breeds. One suggestion is that small breeds may not mature as quickly as previously believed, and so they’re not able to reproduce until they reach that mark. (To me, this kind of makes sense – considering small breeds often live longer, then it’s likely that they mature more slowly, too.)

Method of mating

Like the age of the bitch, the first analysis on the data didn’t show a significance change in litter size based on mating method. However, when the data set was adjusted for breed, breed size, and age, naturally mated bitches had significantly larger litters than those who had been AIed (either fresh or frozen).

A decrease in mean litter size of 0.4 puppies would be expected for litters conceived with AI with fresh semen and 1.3 for AI with frozen semen, both compared to natural mating.

Things that didn’t matter

The number of litters a bitch had previously didn’t influence the size of her litter. (However, older bitches normally had had more litters – and their age did influence litter size.)

The season the litter was born in did not influence litter size.

Conclusion

Size of the breed, age of the bitch, and the method of mating are three factors that work together in determining litter size. It’s not one thing – it’s all three.

“… the size of the breed, the age of the bitch and the method of mating were found to influence litter size in purebred dogs when controlling for breed, with the size of the breed as the strongest determinant.”

This study is better than past studies in this area for its huge sample size, its variety of breeds, and the fact that it considers all puppies in a litter (not just those registered, as some past studies have done). In this way this study is unique. It is probably a pretty reliable data pool for purebred dogs, too, as 90% of purebred dogs in Norway are registered with their kennel club.

Things to consider regarding the vigour of the results:

  • It’s a retrospective study.
  • It does not include data from litters where all pups were born dead.
  • Calculating mean litter size is hard, because of the percentage made up of small or large breeds. Small breeds are currently popular, so could perhaps pull down the mean litter size seen in this study. Studies done in different countries, with different breeds being popular, are likely to result in different results.
  • There is a relatively small sample of bitches who were mated not-naturally in this study, so the results of assisted breedings should be interpreted cautiously, however the results are consistent with previous findings.
  • This study only groups dogs by weight – not by body shape. This might yield differences. (A neapolitan mastiff is really different to a greyhound.) And they group them by weight average of breed, not the weight of the individual bitch
  • This study looked at only two years and the researchers wonder if there might have been more variation in season of birth if there was more time taken into consideration.

In conclusion: Based on this study, breed size is the strongest determinant for litter size in a dog. The age of the bitch and the method of mating were also significant predictors of litter size. These three things interact, making litter size predictions difficult!

Acknowledgements:

Borge, KS, Tonnessen, R, Nodtvedt, A, & Indrebo, A 2011, “Litter size at birth in purebred dogs – A retrospective study of 224 Breeds”, Theriogenology, 75, 911-919.

Thank-you to Waldwiese Kennels for the cover image – a litter of longhair weimaraner puppies.

03/3/16

Photographic Guide to Saving Swimmer Puppies

Saving a swimmer puppy

 

 

I’m proud that, for a number of years, the most popular post on this blog is ‘How to Save a Swimmer Puppy‘. However, I am frequently asked for photographs to illustrate the techniques I mentioned. I have recently had a litter of puppies, so I could stage images showing techniques on young puppies for saving a swimmer puppy.

 

Sling Method

This is by far the most simple method. I use a pillow case, suspended from the back of a chair, and then the puppy is placed inside the pillow case, meaning the puppy is basically in a hammock. When the puppy is placed in the hammock, is important that their legs are tucked underneath them, or the puppy is on their side.

It’s important that the puppy is not allowed to get cold while in this sling, too. You can warm the material of the hammock before placing the puppy inside, and then you can also put a heat pack underneath, on the ground, too (as hot air rises).

You can do this several times a day, ensuring that the puppy stays warm and gets plenty of time to feed in between its time in the sling. Puppies are surprisingly tolerant of this process and rarely object when their stomach is full and their a good temperature.

This is a (zebra-print) pillow case that is suspended on the back of a red chair. Inside, is a baby puppy.  This process will help to fix swimmer puppies.

This is a (zebra-print) pillow case that is suspended on the back of a red chair. Inside, is a baby puppy.
This process will help to fix swimmer puppies.

A puppy (little black blob at the bottom) in a suspended sling. This will help puppies recover from swimmer syndrome.

A puppy (little black blob at the bottom) in a suspended sling. This will help puppies recover from swimmer syndrome.

 

 

Handcuff Method

Using electrical tape, you can create handcuffs that pull the puppies legs inwards, preventing them flailing out to the side as a swimmer. It’s important when using this method that you don’t do it too tight. (To be honest, when I’ve used this method, I’ve had it fall off numerous times a day because of how loose I make it. Fine by me!) You also want to make sure you don’t put too much length between the cuffs – remember the cuffs are supposed to pull the pup’s legs inwards, so if you make the cuffs too long, then the puppy’s legs are still going to be able to swim.

Tools required for the handcuff method: Electrical tape and a pair of scissors!

Tools required for the handcuff method: Electrical tape and a pair of scissors!

Step one: Cut a length of tape. We only need one length of tape, and the exact length will depend on your puppy and how far east west its legs are.

Step one: Cut a length of tape. We only need one length of tape, and the exact length will depend on your puppy and how far east west its legs are.

Step three a: Make one loop of the handcuffs. (This image is for illustration purposes - in reality you'd need the puppy's leg in that loop!)

Step two a: Make one loop of the handcuffs. (This image is for illustration purposes – in reality you’d need the puppy’s leg in that loop!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step three b: Make a second loop of the handcuffs. (Photo for illustration purposes - in reality, there would be a puppy with a leg through each loop!)

Step two b: Make a second loop of the handcuffs. (Photo for illustration purposes – in reality, there would be a puppy with a leg through each loop!)

I’m sorry that I am not much of a photographer, but here are some pictures to try to illustrate how these handcuffs look actually on a puppy.

A puppy in swimmer handcuffs.

A puppy in swimmer handcuffs.

A puppy in swimmer handcuffs.

A puppy in swimmer handcuffs.

A puppy in swimmer handcuffs.

A puppy in swimmer handcuffs.

The benefits of the puppy handcuffs is that they can stay on for long periods of time, and the puppy can still feed and cuddle mum and litter mates while wearing them. Sometimes mothers will remove the handcuffs, and sometimes they fall off, so you are likely to have to put on new handcuffs several times a day. Initially, for a severely affected puppy, you may need to start with long handcuffs then reduce the distance between the handcuffs over time. Puppies are surprisingly tolerant of the handcuffs and rarely fuss once they’re on and they’re back at the milkbar!

 

For more tips please do see How To Save a Swimmer Puppy.

05/9/15

My Say: Proposed Breeder Code of Practice SA

(This is post two in a series of four blog posts on proposed changes to dog laws in South Australia. Post One: Summary. Post Three: D&CMA. Post Four: Mandatory Desexing.)

Submissions on the Government’s proposed changes are due by the 29th of May 2015.

In making a submission, you can follow the online form through the YourSay website, or by:

Emailing: dogandcatreforms@sa.gov.au

Snail mailing:

Dog and Cat Reforms
Conservation and Land Management Branch
Department of Environment, Water and Natural Resources
GPO Box 1046
Adelaide 5001

The YourSay website provides a copy of the proposed Breeder Code of Practice and also a FAQ document. I have uploaded both of these documents to this blog, for historical purposes.

First, let’s consider the online survey. This online survey asks for your feedback on a number of questions, and then a field for further comments. Below, I have listed each question and the response I provided. You are welcome to use my responses in their entirety or in part. You may find it useful to consider these questions in advance and save your responses to a Word document or similar, to avoid the risk of losing them in case of website error.

 

 Survey Question One

· Are the definitions used in the draft Breeding Code clear?

· Do you agree with having standards that set the minimum requirements and are legally enforceable?

· Do you agree with having guidelines that are above the minimum requirements (standards) and are not legally enforceable?

6. Do you support the proposed interpretation and definitions?

While the definitions of the Breeding Code are clear, I do not agree with the notion of a Breeding Code of Practice in the first instance. If the standards outlined in this document are genuinely in the best interest of animal welfare, then they should be applicable to all animals, not just those used for breeding.

Further, I do not agree with having guidelines that are not legally enforceable, as they are superfluous to the goals of the document. That is, it is illogical to introduce guidelines that are known to be not legally enforceable and an optional extra.

Additionally, even if the proposed Breeding Code was to ‘go ahead’, there are many proposed standards that are inappropriate. For example:

*In general, the standards require excessive record keeping.  For example, it is incredibly burdensome to expect a small hobby breeder to have all the details listed, written and stored for 5 years, for every dog ever in their care. Additionally, the requirement for breeders to have an isolation area is inappropriate and burdensome to small hobby breeders.

*Standard 5.1.1.3 is vague and subjective, requiring animal housing to be designed in a way that facilitates ‘good health’ and ‘minimises risk of disease transmission’.

*Minimum sizes for dog housing prevent the use of crates as crates are below the minimal standards specified. Crates should not be banned as they help train appropriate toiletting, help animals learn to cope with transport (e.g. they learn to be crated prior to transport), and are often spaces that dogs enjoy and seek out.

*Standard 6.1.1.4 requires animals to be isolated from others in a number of circumstances that have no scientific basis. For example, bitches in season have to be isolated from other animals. There is no need for this to occur. Additionally, many bitches will co-parent litters (e.g. two bitches lactating for one litter), and this standard removes the ability for breeders to be allow bitches to co-parent in this way.

*Standard 6.3.1.6 requires bedding to be disinfected weekly. This is well beyond the normal practices of pet owners, and may actually cause resistant-bacteria to formulate in the animal’s environment.

*Standards that vary for droving or animals used for stock control weaken this legislation. If this is ‘best practice’, then it is best practice for all dogs, not just those used in pet settings.

*Standard 7.3.1.1 requires (uses the word “must”) animals to be euthanised if a vet suggests it, and includes behavioural reasons as a suitable reason for euthanasia.

*Standard 8.1.1.1 requires animals are not sold before 7 weeks, yet many breeders have waiting lists where puppies are sold before they are even conceived, born, and most times before 7 weeks. This acts as insurance for both breeder and puppy buyer.

*Standard 8.1.1.4 requires animals that have health issues are not sold – effectively requiring breeders to keep the animal, kill the animal, or give it away. Instead the section should, at the very least, be changed to “No animal suspected of suffering a significant illness, injury or disease (including congenital disease) must be sold without full disclosure of this condition to the purchaser.”.

*Standard 9.1.1.1 requires bitches are not bred on their first season. There is no scientific basis behind this claim. Bitches are normally fitter and more able to naturally whelp at a young age than an older age. It assumes that all bitches will have their first cycle before 12 months, which is not the case.

*Standard 9.1.1.6/7 requires bedding is changed daily for newborn animals, which could be unnecessarily stressful for a mother and litter.

*Standard 9.1.1.12 requires bitches be able to escape their young. This has obviously been written by an individual who has not whelped an animal that does not want to mother their offspring. If this was a requirement, puppies would die due to maternal neglect. Breeders should be able to manage dams and pups as they best see fit.

*Standard 9.1.1.13 means that puppies can’t begin socialisation/habituation outside the house before 7 weeks unless their mothers accompanies them. This is counter-intuitive to the psychological development of pups.

 

Survey Question Two

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards relating to the responsibilities and competency of staff. These include:

· the person in charge is responsible for compliance with the standards

· the person in charge attends the establishment with sufficient frequency to meet the requirements of the code

· the person in charge must be knowledgeable and competent to provide for the care of animals

· trainees and volunteers are supervised by experienced staff and adequately trained

· facilities are sufficiently staffed to meet the standards

7. Do you support the proposed standards for the responsibilities and competency of staff?

Requirements on what is ‘adequate training’ are vague. However, if there was required learning (e.g. a particular certificate) this would be unnecessarily financially burdensome for small hobby breeders and rescue facilities. The workings of this whole section need to be reconsidered.

 

Survey Question Three

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards for quality management systems. These include:

· a requirement to record information about each animal housed at the facility

· records must be retained for five years after the death or disposal of an animal

· staff must be able to access and present records for inspection

· documented program for the control of insects, external parasites and vertebrate pests at the facility

· documented procedure for swift removal of animals in the case of an emergency

8. Do you support the proposed standards for quality management systems?

These requirements are excessive for a small hobby breeder. To require a breeder to have this information recorded on paper will create a lot of work for breeders for little or no gain in terms of animal welfare. A visual is all that’s required to determine whether an animal is healthy or not, and paperwork is only useful to show a process for animals that are unhealthy.

 

Survey Question Four

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards for animal housing that include:

· requirements for shade, light, ventilation and security

· standards for animals that need to be kept in isolation

· minimum sizes for dog housing and cat housing

9. Do you support the proposed standards for animal housing?

The current proposed requirements practically ban the use of crates. Breeders need to be able to use crates to transport dogs and for assisting in toilet training. Crates are also used for animals after undergoing surgeries. The best way to allow an animal to become habituated to a crate is to use them in ‘everyday life’. Crates need to be legal.

 

Survey Question Five

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards for animal management that include:

· a daily 30 minutes minimum exercise requirement

· a requirement for environmental enrichment

· a requirement to provide a balanced and complete diet

· cleaning and disinfection standards

· transport standards

10. Do you support the disability dog regulation proposal?

I’m not sure that this question marries with the dot pointed list above. However, I mostly support the proposed standards around exercise and environmental enrichment. The proposed standards seems to use disinfectant excessively and some uses of disinfectant should perhaps be switched to guidelines instead of standards, or removed all together.

 

Survey Question Six

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards for animal health that include:

· require daily inspection of animals

· appropriate veterinary treatment must be provided for sick or injured animals

· euthanasia standard

11. Do you support the proposed standards for animal health?

Euthanasia should not be an option for dogs that are ‘impractical’ to train. Instead, owners should attempt to rehome the animal. Attempts to rehome animals should be part of the standards, not guidelines. Remove the use of the word ‘must’ in regard to veterinarian recommendations of euthanasia. Currently, the standards are written in a way that makes euthanasia permissive.

 

Survey Question Seven

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards for the transfer of ownership that include:

· puppies and kittens must not to be sold before they are seven weeks of age

· animals must be vaccinated prior to sale

· free information on the care of animals must be provided at the time of purchase

12. Do you support the proposed standards for transfer of ownership?

Support vaccinations of animals before sale and provision of free information. The information suggested in the guidelines is excessive and, if provided, is likely to not be read by the purchaser. Puppies and kittens should be able to be sold prior to 7 weeks, but shouldn’t leave to their new homes until 8 weeks. This would give consumers confidence (e.g. they are definitely getting an animal), and buyers reassurance (e.g. there is a home for their puppy/kitten at 8 weeks).

 

Survey Questions Eight

The draft Breeding Code proposes legally enforceable standards for the breeding and rearing that include:

· males and females must be physically and mentally fit, healthy and free of disease at the time of mating

· no intentional mating during the first oestrous cycle

· bitches must not have more than two litters in any 18 month period, unless approved in writing by a veterinarian

· queens must not have more than three litters in any two year period, unless approved in writing by a veterinarian

· a requirement to provide additional food and water in certain circumstances

13. Do you support the proposed standards for breeding and rearing?

Support all but ‘no intentional mating during the first oestrous cycle’. There is no scientific reason that bitches cannot be mated during the first season.

 

The second manner in which to respond to this draft code is by email submission. My own is written below, however, if you prefer, you can also download the PDF version.

To whom it may concern,

Re: Dog and Cat Reforms

I am writing in response to the Draft Code of Practice for the Welfare of Dogs and Cats in Breeding Facilities. Including in this response is a table, responding to each individual standard outlined in the proposed Code, the changes that are necessary, and the rationale for suggesting such a change.

It concerns me that this Code at times replicates legislation already seen in The Animal Welfare Act and The Dog and Cat Management Act (or its proposed changes). This complicates animal management in the state, for both those responsible for animals and those authorised persons responsible for upholding the legislation. Many of my recommendations are based on removing this duplication of legislation.

My other suggestions for changes are chiefly based upon removing undue burden for small hobby breeders, standards with no scientific basis, and the ease this document allows animals to be euthanised.

While I have responded to the Draft Code of Practice, it is important to note that the proposal of a breeder registration scheme problematic in itself. There is no evidence that breeder registration results in greater consumer confidence or satisfaction. There are risks that such legislation would cause a decline in ethical breeders (as they may be priced out of the scheme) while unethical breeders who produce many puppies for profit will be most suited to respond to the standards. Further, considering the authorised persons already inadequately enforce The Animal Welfare Act and The Dog and Cat Management Act, I have little faith that any new legislation will be adequately enforced.

Considering this, it would be best for no breeder registration scheme to be implemented. However, failing that, the standards at least need to be heavily reviewed in order to address the issues of duplication, impact on small breeders, lack of scientific rationale, and simplistic euthanasia procedures. Because of the number of problematic standards in this draft code, a second review process needs to be undertaken at the very least.

Regards,

Tegan Whalan

 

Current Proposed Standard Proposed Change Rationale
3.1.1 The person in charge of the facility is responsible for compliance with all Standards within this Code. - -
3.1.2 The person in charge of the facility must be aware of their responsibilities towards the animals in their care. Each day, a person must be in attendance with sufficient frequency to meet the requirements of this Code, and must be knowledgeable and competent to: • provide for the animals’ care and welfare • provide for the feeding and watering of the animals • take reasonable steps to protect animals from distress or injury caused by other animals or interference by people • clean and ensure proper hygiene in the facility • identify signs of common diseases of the animals kept. - -
3.1.3 Where trainees and volunteers are engaged by the facility they must work under the supervision of trained and experienced staff. - -
3.1.4 Facilities must engage sufficient staff to meet these Standards and ensure the welfare of the animals being kept. Remove section. Unnecessary. 3.1.1 states that the person in charge of the facility is responsible for complying with the code. Obviously, this involves employing staff to meet the requirements of the code.
4.1.1 The following information must be recorded for each animal that is housed at the facility: • a description which includes: » name » microchip number (if microchipped) » sex (including whether desexed) » breed » colour » the pedigree registration number (for purebred animals) of owned and leased animals » distinguishing features » any special medical and dietary requirements • the history of the animal which includes: » date of birth » the date of acquisition/arrival » vaccination status » details of preventative and veterinary treatment, for example routine husbandry procedures such as worming or parasite control » details of medical history » any genetic or other health testing undertaken • method of disposal of the animal which includes: » the date and details of the sale or give away » if animals are euthanised the date, reason and method for euthanasia » if the animal died, the date of death, whether or not a necropsy was performed and the cause of death (if known) • if the animal is leased: » the name, address and telephone number of the owner or lessee » the name and contact telephone number of the veterinary practitioner who normally attends the animal. Remove section. Record keeping outlined here is extensive and burdensome for a hobby breeder.
4.1.2 Information which details each litter bred must be recorded and must include: • the name and microchip number of both the dam and the sire (if microchipped) • the date of mating(s) • the date of whelping or queening • identification details for each animal within the litter including any abnormalities or deaths. - -
4.1.3 Records must be retained for no less than five years after the death or disposal of the animal and all staff must be able to produce the records at the request of an inspector under the Animal Welfare Act 1985. Remove section. Record keeping outlined here is extensive and burdensome for a hobby breeder.
4.1.4 The facility must have a documented program in place to control insects, external parasites (including fleas, lice, ticks) and vertebrate pests (for example rats or mice). This program must be kept at the facility and all staff must be able to produce or access it and must be familiar with its content. 4.1.4 The facility must have a documented program in place to control insects, external parasites (including fleas, lice, ticks) and vertebrate pests (for example rats or mice), if evidence of such parasites or pests are sighted. This program must be kept at the facility and all staff must be able to produce or access it and must be familiar with its content. Unnecessary for facilities to have a documented program of parasite and pest control if the facility has never witnessed the parasites or pests.
4.1.5 Each facility must have a documented procedure for the swift removal of animals from the facility, in the case of emergency. This procedure must be kept at the facility and all staff must be able to produce or access it and must be familiar with its content. Remove section. Record keeping outlined here is extensive and burdensome for a hobby breeder.
5.1.1.1 Vehicles, caravans, portable crates and the crawl space under any dwelling must not be used as permanent housing. Unsure. Currently unclear what ‘permanent housing’ definition is.
5.1.1.2 Breeding facilities must have a clean and adequate water supply, sufficient to meet the daily requirements of the animals. Remove section. An individual is already in violation of the Animal Welfare Act if they fail to provide an animal with water.
5.1.1.3 Breeding facilities must be designed, constructed, serviced and maintained in a way that: • provides for the good health and wellbeing of the animals • minimises the risk of the transmission of infectious disease agents • minimises the risk of escape of animals • Minimises the risk of injury to animals and humans Unsure. Section is vague, subjective, and unenforceable.
5.1.1.4 Animals must be provided with protection from rain and wind, direct sunlight or other adverse weather conditions and must be provided with clean, dry, dedicated sleeping areas. - -
5.1.1.5 If a facility houses both dogs and cats, cat housing must be sufficiently distant or otherwise isolated from dog housing to minimise the stress to cats created by the sound, sight or smell of dogs. - -
5.1.1.6 Housing must meet the minimum sizes shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. These limits do not apply to animals being temporarily housed while undergoing treatment or being transported for a disease or injury. 5.1.1.6 Housing must meet the minimum sizes shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. These limits do not apply to animals being temporarily housed. (Section: “while undergoing treatment or being transported for a disease or injury” removed.) As the code is currently written, crates have been banned. Crates are important for confining dogs for a number of purposes, and are often spaces that dogs deliberately seek out for rest. As dogs are often crated during medical treatment or transport, a familiarity with crates is important to minimize stress at these times. Crates need to be permitted and the only way to do this is to make changes to the housing sizes shown.
5.1.1.7 Animals: • must be provided with sleeping areas that have clean, hygienic, dry bedding, appropriate to the species and breed, sufficient for the number of animals held, and sufficient to insulate them from the floor • must not be in extended contact with wet floors • must not be kept exclusively on wire flooring. - -
5.1.1.8 Cats must be provided: • with a suitable box each in which to hide or sleep • a litter tray that is at least 1.2 times the length of the cat and that contains a sufficient depth of material such as commercial cat litter, sawdust, shavings, sand or shredded paper. - -
5.1.1.9 An area must either be available at the facility or at a veterinary hospital where animals can be kept in isolation. There must be documented and demonstrable biosecurity measures in place prior to use. Remove section. Excessive demands of small hobby breeders to have an isolation area, and it is excessive to require vets to provide written documentation of their availability of their facilities for isolation.
5.1.1.10 Animals known or suspected to be suffering from a significant infectious disease or severe injury must be taken directly to where they can be kept in isolation unless it is in the animal’s welfare to be housed with other animals and does not put the other animals at risk. - -
5.1.1.11 A cat isolation facility must be a sufficient distance or otherwise isolated from dog housing to minimise the stress created by the sound, sight or smell of dogs. - -
5.2.1.1 Housing must have a shaded area to escape direct exposure from the sun. Remove section. Already covered in 5.1.1.4.
5.2.1.2 Animals must be protected from extremes of temperature. Remove section. Already covered in 5.1.1.4.
5.2.1.3 The duration and intensity of artificial lighting, if used, must be as close as possible to natural conditions, sufficient to allow thorough inspection and observation of animals and must mimic the prevailing natural light cycles. Animals must be protected from excessive light that is generated from an external source. - -
5.2.1.4 Housing areas must sufficiently ventilated to maintain the health of the animals, while minimising undue draughts, odours and moisture condensation. Unsure. Section is vague, subjective, and unenforceable.
5.2.1.5 Air ventilation devices, if used, must have an air change rate sufficient to distribute fresh air evenly to all of the animal holding areas ; and must have a back-up system in case the system becomes inoperable. - -
5.3.1.1 The facility must be able to be reasonably secured to prevent access by unauthorised people. - -
5.3.1.2 Housing must be fitted with a secure closing device that cannot be opened by the animals held. Remove section. Covered by section 5.3.1.4.
5.3.1.3 Animals must not be able to escape except in circumstances that cannot reasonably be foreseen and guarded against. - -
5.3.1.4 Unauthorised people must not have access to animal holding areas unless under the supervision of a staff member. - -
5.3.1.5 All potential poisons and harmful substances, whether in storage or in use, must be kept out of reach of animals. - -
6.1.1.1 Each animal must be individually identified. Remove section. Covered by proposed changes to the Dog and Cat Management Act that requires all animals to be microchipped.
6.1.1.2 Appropriate measures must be implemented to minimise the risk of distress or injury caused by other animals. This includes supervising animals sharing an exercise area unless they are known to be compatible. - -
6.1.1.3 Animals must be protected from distress or injury caused by interference by people. - -
6.1.1.4 Animals that must be kept in isolation must be kept in a quiet, warm and dry area. In most instances, the following categories of animals must be isolated : • animals with dependent young • animals about to give birth • animals in season, where it is not the intention to breed • sick or injured animals. Remove section. Animals due to give birth should not be kept in isolation, but supervised by someone experienced in whelping/queening. Animals with dependent young may choose to co-parent litters, but requiring them to be in isolation prevents the benefits of co-parenting by effectively making the practice illegal. Dogs are social animals and should not be isolated from others of their species for 2-3 weeks because they are in season. There is no logical reason for these isolation requirements.
6.1.1.5 Animals that may be distressed by the presence of other dogs or cats, or another species (eg. sheep or cattle) must be housed in a manner that prevents visual contact and minimises or reduces their ability to smell the other animals. - -
6.1.1. Long haired animals must be groomed by brushing or clipping at a frequency which ensures that their health and comfort is maintained. - -
6.1.1.7 Adult animals must have the opportunity to exercise for at least 30 minutes daily, unless being treated for significant illness or injury. For dogs, this can be provided through training or work activities, or allowing the animal access to an exercise area to run freely, or by walking them on a lead. Unsure. It is unclear on how an exercise area differs from an area that the animal permanently resides.
6.1.1.8 Dogs must not be exercised in any way which may pose the risk of serious injury, for example attached to a motor vehicle, or unsupervised on a treadmill. - -
6.1.1.9 Animals must receive environmental enrichment, recognising the physiological status and special needs of differing ages and species, to ensure good psychological health. Remove section. Section is vague, subjective, and unenforceable.
6.1.1.10 Animals that are unable to feed themselves must only be kept if there are adequate facilities and expertise is available for artificial rearing. Remove section. Owners are already required to provide animals with “appropriate and adequate” food as per the Animal Welfare Act. Unnecessary to include it in this code.
6.2.1.1 Adequate cool, clean, palatable water to meet the physiological needs of the animal must be available at all times. Remove section. An individual is already in violation of the Animal Welfare Act if they fail to provide an animal with water.
6.2.1.2 Animals must receive a balanced and complete diet which allows them to maintain good health and growth. Food must be palatable and in a form appropriate to the age and medical condition of the animal. Remove section. Owners are already required to provide animals with “appropriate and adequate” food as per the Animal Welfare Act. Unnecessary to include it in this code.
6.2.1.3 Puppies and kittens under four months of age must be offered a sufficient quantity of a balanced and complete diet at least twice daily, unless receiving adequate maternal nutrition. Remove section. Owners are already required to provide animals with “appropriate and adequate” food as per the Animal Welfare Act. Unnecessary to include it in this code.
6.2.1.4 Animals that are co-housed with other animals must be monitored during feeding to ensure they all eat their own share. Remove section. Owners are already required to provide animals with “appropriate and adequate” food as per the Animal Welfare Act. Unnecessary to include it in this code.
6.2.1.5 Spoiled or stale food must be removed and disposed of promptly. - -
6.2.1.6 Food and water containers must be removed, cleaned and replaced immediately if noticed to be contaminated by urine, faeces, vomitus and the like. Remove section. Unenforceable, as an individually can simply claim that the reciprocal ‘wasn’t noticed’ to be contaiminated.
6.2.1.7 Food must be stored to prevent its deterioration or contamination - -
6.3.1.1 Areas housing animals within a facility must be cleaned at least once daily. Unsure. Section is vague. What does ‘clean’ extend to? Poop scooping, hosing, disinfectant, or others? How does this apply to home hobby-breeders who have dogs that run on porous surfaces?
6.3.1.2 Exercise areas must be maintained in a clean and healthy state and cleaned before new dogs are introduced to the area. Unsure. Section is vague. What does ‘clean’ extend to? Poop scooping, hosing, disinfectant, or others? How does this apply to home hobby-breeders who have dogs that run on porous surfaces?
6.3.1.3 Housing must be disinfected regularly. Remove section. Disinfecting regularly is likely to cause the development of resilient bacteria, and have no true purpose in maintaining cleanliness of a facility.
6.3.1.4 Housing, including exercise yards and bedding, which has housed an animal afflicted by an infectious disease must be disinfected and decontaminated with an appropriate product before a new animal is introduced (or the bedding discarded and replaced entirely). - -
6.3.1.5 Housing must be cleaned and disinfected before new animals are introduced or before whelping or kittening. Remove section. Disinfecting regularly is likely to cause the development of resilient bacteria, and have no true purpose in maintaining cleanliness of a facility.
6.3.1.6 Bedding must be cleaned or changed at least once daily if soiled, and disinfected at least weekly. 6.3.1.6 Bedding must be cleaned or changed at least once daily if soiled. (Removed section”, and disinfected at least weekly”.) Disinfecting regularly is likely to cause the development of resilient bacteria, and have no true purpose in maintaining cleanliness of a facility.
6.3.1.7 Food preparation and storage areas, food and water containers and utensils and equipment used in the preparation and provision of food must be maintained in a hygienic state. - -
6.3.1.8 Collection drains must be cleaned daily. Unsure. If no collection drains are present at the facility, how may the owner of the facility meet this element of the code?
6.3.1.9 Litter trays must be checked, scooped and replenished daily - -
6.3.1.10 Litter trays must be changed, washed and disinfected before being allocated to a new cat. - -
6.3.1.11 Litter trays that are saturated with urine must be changed immediately. - -
6.4.1.1 All animals must be transported in a manner appropriate for their species, size and age. Incompatible animals must be physically separated during transport to prevent injury, harm or distress. - -
6.4.1.2 Animals must not be transported in the boot of a car. - -
6.4.1.3 Vehicles must have adequate ventilation and shade, sufficient to maintain good health and to avoid distress. - -
6.4.1.4 All vehicles used extensively for the purpose of transporting animals must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected after use to minimise the possibility of transmission of infectious disease agents between consignments of animals. This does not apply to a vehicle used to transport a dog that is being used in the droving or tending of stock or is going to, or returning from, a place where it will be, or has been, so used. Remove section. Disinfecting regularly is likely to cause the development of resilient bacteria, and have no true purpose in maintaining cleanliness of a facility. Further, many vehicles are difficult to adequately clean/disinfect due to the upholstery. Additionally, dogs used for stock use should not be exempt from this section of the code.
6.4.1.5 The minimum exercise requirement of this Code (6.1.1.7) applies to transported dogs and cats. - -
7.1.1.1 All dogs and cats must be inspected at least once daily to monitor their health and wellbeing. The person who is inspecting must note all adverse observations, for example if an animal is: • not eating • not drinking (in the case of kittens/puppies drinking milk) • not defecating • not urinating • behaving abnormally • unable to move about freely • displaying an abnormal coat • showing any obvious signs of pain, injury, illness or distress • suffering any unexpected or rapid weight loss. - -
7.1.1.2 Any changes in health status must be promptly reported to the person in charge of the facility for appropriate action. 7.1.1.2 Any changes in health status must be promptly reported to the person in charge of the facility and action taken. Changed from passive (‘appropriate action’) to assertive (‘and action taken’).
7.1.1.3 If there is evidence that whelping or kittening has commenced (e.g. straining or contracting) and there is no progress within two hours, the bitch or queen must be examined by a veterinary practitioner or other appropriate remedial action taken. - -
7.2.1.1 The person in charge of the facility must establish liaison with a veterinary practitioner who is able to attend to their animals and advise on disease prevention measures. - -
7.2.1.2 The contact details for the veterinary practitioner must be posted in a location which enables staff and visitors to see them. - -
7.2.1.3 Appropriate veterinary treatment must be provided for sick or injured animals. - -
7.2.1.4 Permission in writing must be obtained from the owner (or nominee if the animal is leased at the time of acceptance for breeding) authorising the provision of necessary veterinary treatment. - -
7.2.1.5 Dogs and puppies must be vaccinated against distemper, hepatitis and parvovirus in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations unless there is written advice from a veterinary practitioner not to do so. Remove section. There is significant debate regarding vaccination protocols in dogs. In particularly, The Australian Veterinary Association recommends tri-annual vaccination, yet many veterinarians current practice against the AVA’s recommendations. Due to the discrepancies between the AVA, practitioners, and the manufacturers, it seems folly to legislate one particular approach.
7.2.1.6 Cats and kittens must be vaccinated against feline infectious enteritis and feline respiratory disease in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations unless there is written advice from a veterinary practitioner not to do so. Remove section. There is significant debate regarding vaccination protocols in dogs. In particularly, The Australian Veterinary Association recommends tri-annual vaccination, yet many veterinarians current practice against the AVA’s recommendations. Due to the discrepancies between the AVA, practitioners, and the manufacturers, it seems folly to legislate one particular approach.
7.2.1.7 Animals known or suspected to be suffering from a significant infectious disease must not be used for breeding or be accepted for breeding under lease unless under written approval from a veterinary practitioner. - -
7.2.1.8 Internal and external parasites including fleas, lice, ticks, gastrointestinal worms and heartworm must be controlled through routine and preventative treatment as appropriate. Remove section. Already covered by 4.1.4.
7.3.1.1 If treatment to restore the physical and mental health of an animal while in the facility is impractical or unsuccessful, or if euthanasia is recommended by a veterinary practitioner, the animal must be euthanised. 7.3.1.1 If treatment to restore the physical and mental health of an animal while in the facility is impractical or unsuccessful, the animal should be moved to a facility where attendance to its physical and mental needs is attainable. Owners should not be obligated to euthanise animals (“the animal must be euthanised”), nor should this approach be legitimized in the code.
7.3.1.2 Euthanasia must be conducted in an area that is separated from animal accommodation at the facility and must not be carried out in view of any other animals. - -
8.1.1.1 Puppies and kittens must not be sold before they are 7 weeks of age. Unsure. Animals are frequently sold before 7 weeks, but do not permanently vacate the premises before this time. Selling animals prior to 7 weeks means that both the buyer and seller has certainty about the puppy’s future, and this fore-planning should be encouraged, not out-lawed.
8.1.1.2 No animal must be sold unless vaccinated in compliance with the requirements of Section 7.2 of this Code. 8.1.1.2 No animal must be sold unless vaccinated. (Removed section: “in compliance with the requirements of Section 7.2 of this Code.”) There is significant debate regarding vaccination protocols in dogs. In particularly, The Australian Veterinary Association recommends tri-annual vaccination, yet many veterinarians current practice against the AVA’s recommendations. Due to the discrepancies between the AVA, practitioners, and the manufacturers, it seems folly to legislate one particular approach.
8.1.1.3 All animals must be treated for internal and external parasites prior to sale. - -
8.1.1.4 No animal suspected of suffering a significant illness, injury or disease (including congenital diseases) must be sold. 8.1.1.4 No animal suspected of suffering a significant illness, injury or disease (including congenital diseases) must be sold unless the purchaser is provided with written details of its condition prior to sale. As it is currently written, breeders are required to either keep or euthanise animals with illness, injury or disease. Steps should be made that reduce euthanasia, not increase it.
8.1.1.5 At the time of purchase, clients must be offered accurate written information at no charge that concerns the care of animals purchased. - -
9.1.1.1 Bitches and queens must not be intentionally mated during their first oestrous cycle. Remove section. There is no scientific evidence, anywhere, that suggests that breeding bitches on their first cycle is hazardous to the well being of their pups or the dam.
9.1.1.2 Males and females must be physically and mentally fit, healthy and free of disease at the time of mating. - -
9.1.1.3 During mating, breeding pairs must be isolated from other animals, and monitored by the person in charge or a competent member of staff. - -
9.1.1.4 Bitches and queens in the latter stages of pregnancy must be provided with additional food and water, at frequent intervals. - -
9.1.1.5 During birthing bitches and queens must be isolated from other animals and monitored by the person in charge or a competent member of staff on a regular basis to ensure that the birth proceeds in a normal manner. - -
9.1.1.6 Whelping bitches must be provided with a suitable whelping box, lined with clean bedding, which is changed daily. 9.1.1.6 Whelping bitches must be provided with a suitable whelping box, lined with clean bedding. (Section removed: “, which is changed daily.”) Changing bedding daily can be stressful to a bitch and her pups.
9.1.1.7 Kittening queens must be provided with a covered kittening box, lined with clean bedding, which is changed daily. Unsure. Perhaps changing bedding daily is stressful for queens and her kittens, too.
9.1.1.8 Animals that are isolated must be provided with additional attention and socialisation to animal carers. - -
9.1.1.9 Bitches must not have more than two litters in any eighteen month period, unless with the written approval of a veterinary practitioner. Remove section. There is no scientific evidence that suggests that having more than two litters from a bitch in an eighteen month period is hazardous to the health of the bitch or to her pups.
9.1.1.10 Queens must not have more than three litters in any two year period, unless with the written approval of a veterinary practitioner Unsure. Perhaps there is no scientific evidence that multiple litters is hazardous to the health of queens and kits, either.
9.1.1.11 Lactating bitches and queens must be provided with additional food and water. Remove section. Already covered by 6.2.1.1 and
9.1.1.12 Lactating bitches and queens must be housed in such a manner that they are able to escape their young. Remove section. Some bitches (and presumably queens) are ‘bad mothers’ and may inadequately feed their young. If they are allowed an avenue to escape, they may not feed their young, and their young would perish. Breeders should be allowed to make choices based on the welfare of an individual bitch and her young.
9.1.1.13 Kittens or puppies must not be separated from their litter or their lactating mother until they are seven weeks of age, unless it is in the best interests of the puppy or kitten, or their mother. Remove section. It is always in the best interest for puppies to be extensively socialised from 4 weeks old, and independently to their mother and other pups. It is in a puppy’s best interest to be weaned well prior to 8 weeks, when they go to a new home.
9.1.1.14 Puppies and kittens must be monitored when first offered solid food to ensure that the food is acceptable and palatable. Remove section. Owners are already required to provide animals with “appropriate and adequate” food as per the Animal Welfare Act. Unnecessary to include it in this code.
9.1.1.15 Puppies and kittens must be observed to ensure they achieve a steady weight gain every week. Remove section. Owners are already required to provide animals with “appropriate and adequate” food as per the Animal Welfare Act. Unnecessary to include it in this code.

Please feel free to utilise my own submission in whatever way you feel just in preparing your own. I can only hope that this time the powers-that-be heed the submissions and make changes that are based on science and evidence, instead of public outcry.

Dogs SA’s response to the breeder code can be seen here.

Voluntary credit to Tableizer who made creating that massive table a whole lot easier.